¡ATLETI! ¡ATLETI!

Last night was the best night ever! My friend Enrique treated me to an authentic cultural experience. We participated in a one hundred year old tradition: Fútbol in Madrid. Not just any fútbol game. THE fútbol game. Real Madrid vs. Atlético Madrid, age-old arch rivals. I didn't know that we'd be going to the game, but Enrique came prepared with an "Atleti" scarf for me to wear and bocadillos de tortilla for me to eat (both game night necessities). We joined the crowd (of 56,142) in other traditions, too, such as chanting "Atleti, Atleti!" and eating "pipas", sunflower seeds with the shells (still practicing my technique right now).

This might get a little long, but I have to give you some details about this adventure. (You'll know why I call it that when you're done reading.) Near the stadium the streets were filled with crazy Atlético fans. Enrique told me that it's dangerous to go there wearing Real Madrid paraphernalia. He was right. Not only that, but when the Real Madrid players' bus arrived, the Atleti "radicals" threw rocks at it, causing the police to fire off shots of "pelotas de goma" (rubber balls)...causing us on to run away (three times). Finally, we found a quieter street (although it was completely covered with broken glass and trash), and arrived safely. Now, I have to be clear that not all the fans behaved like crazed beasts...only a group of them, and Enrique felt really bad about their behavior. Spaniards are not barbarians. (Enrique told me I had to write that in my blog.)

Okay, so after passing security and Anti-American graffiti, we found our seats. I must say that Spanish security is pretty clever. They let you bring in food and drinks in plastic bottles, but they take the caps off all of your bottles so that you can't throw them full onto the field. Anyway, it turned out that our seats were right by the "Madridista" (Real Madrid) section. Enrique insisted on sitting in the seat closer to them, just in case, but we didn't have to worry because their section was surrounded by police officers in SWAT-like helmets, wielding sticks.

The game started at 10 pm and there wasn't an empty seat in the house. (I have no idea how Enrique got tickets just this past week.) The real fanatics were across the field from us and had a big mural-type banner that they hoisted over their WHOLE SECTION. It was monstrous. What struck me odd was that they announced the players, but there was no announcer during the game and no re-plays on the screen. That was fine because the game was so captivating that I didn't miss a thing.

Atleti dominated and scored a beautiful goal in the first half. The crowd went byzerk. We all had high hopes since Atleti hadn't won at home against Real Madrid in 15 years. Soon after, Atleti scored again, but the ref called off-sides (which every newspaper today called a mistake). Well, even though Atleti dominated again in the second half, Real Madrid's keeper was too good. Real Madrid tied it up and it ended 1-1. Empate (tie).

Over all, it was a great time. I don't know if I'd bring kids there, though. Most of the chants are anti-Madridista and vulgar. I don't know why they can't just cheer for their own team instead of hurling insults at the other! They also threw lighters at one of the Real Madrid players when he took a corner kick. Increíble. Anyway, I got to see incredible fútbol, two goals, one red card, LOTS of police, and the home of the "adoradores del dios Neptuno" (look it up- this is way too long...I'm highly impressed if you're still reading).

¡ATLETI! ¡ATLETI!

And, no, Beckham didn't play due to his red card in last week's game.

I will add a link to my list on the right, if you'd like to see the big "Atleti mural" and highlights from the game. (Photo of police outside the stadium courtesy of Elpais.com)